MAI PUBBLICATI - NEVER PUBLISHED

                                   OPUS MUSIVUM 

In an experiment testing the more macabre dimension of tourism, last year a German travel organization began offering a package including excursions to sites made famous solely by the Sicilian Mafia’s killing someone there.

While for some it has proved to be a popular extension, there are those who would prefer less of the macabre whilst travelling! Happily, Sicily also happens to offer a rich blend of historical, cultural, traditional and gastronomical delights! With  Piazza Armerina, a little town located in the middle, the focal point of your stay Sicily suddenly becomes a tourist destination not to be missed by even the most sedate traveller!

Piazza Armerina  is an ancient settlement strategically located on top of a hill which dominates the surrounding landscape and from which you can absorbe a breathtaking  panorama surrounded by luscious vegetation. Characterized by a wealth of archeological evidence, Piazza Armerina is believed to have been originally founded by a Beotian tribe called Plateei around 5th century B.C., during which its ancient name was Plutia.

As you find a quiet spot to contemplate the countryside you cannot help but be overwhelmed by a sense of the countless battles and conquests this hill as witnessed, from long forgotten tussles between warring tribesmen to the transitions between Roman settlements and Muslim domination.

After a final liberation by Count Roger The Norman in 1060, after which many of his soldiers settled around the area permanently, in an attempt to bring political stability to the region, the whole of Plutia was destroyed only one century later by King William II Malo as  revenge for its rebellion against the Norman's rules.

 

In 1163 the town was rebuilt and called Piazza Armerina. Since, it has still played an important strategic role within the political and military scenarios of Svevian, French and Spanish rule in Sicily. As a result of being a constant centre of power struggles in the region, Piazza Armerina is now characterized by a totally unique blend of different styles and historical traditions.

The architectural stucture is predominantly medieval but through the centuries the town has been enriched with magnificent Renaissance and Baroque buildings. A stroll down the passiata (promenade) around the stone-paved narrow streets offers impressive views of several grand monuments to these changing times. The church of St. John of Rodi sits far more comfortably near the Norman Castle today than a thousand years ago, while the shift out of the Medieval age is well presented in churches like St. Peter, St. John and the Jesuit College. A lot of the privately owned houses display more of the typical Baroque style.

Sounds, colours and smells are typically Mediterranean and the local people’s hospitality makes you feel "interactive" with the culture, particularly during festive occasions such as the Palio dei Normanni, held on the 13th and 14th of August. This festival commemorates the liberation from Muslim rule by the Normans.

Both days the local people are perfectly dressed in medieval costumes. The first day they reenact the arrival of Count Roger and his troops in town and the keys of the city are symbolically offered to him. The next day in an open area (usually the soccer field) the Palio or Quintana takes place: the cavalry teams representing the four ancient neighbourhoods of Plutia, challenge each other in three different games. The winners receive from Count Roger a copy of the precious Bizantine flag representing Our Lady of Victory. It is a feast of colours, traditions, dances and a warm welcome for every visitor.

While visiting the historical monuments, those who love shopping can choose from a wide range of shops offering fashions and high quality Sicilian goods as well as souvenirs and local products.

Such an exciting walk, enriched by particular herb fragrances such as garlic, rosemary and basil floating in the air, usually works as a powerful apetizer.

What about a menu of four different choices of local dishes ranging from $18 to $30? Fusilli alla castellana or Cavati alla Turiddu as entree, followed by Falsomagro alla siciliana or Grigliata mista as main course, and a delicious Cannolo di ricotta as dessert, all washed down by a nice bottle of Corvo di Salaparuta or Donna Fugata red wines?

Surrounded by luscious vegetation is Park Hotel "Paradiso" where, with your delicious meal, you can enjoy two swimming pools, tennis court or accompanied bush walks. You could also ask to visit their farm, L'antica stazione, where you can taste fresh made dairies such as ricotta and cheese, vegetables, homemade wine and bread while your kids have fun at Bambinopoli, a huge playground which is part of the complex.

Luxury accommodation is available at Park Hotel in completely renovated rooms for $140 d/b with ensuite including breakfast (Ph. 39 0935 680841, Fax 39 0935 684908).

After you have delighted your tastebuds, it's now time to do the same with your sight.

Where? At "Villa Romana del Casale", a magnificent building dated from the Imperial Roman age which features its internationally known mosaics. A short walk on a narrow stone-paved road, cutting through hilly meadows, with fragrant and colourful wild flowers, will bring you to the Villa.

The complex of buildings is believed to have been built by Emperor Massimiano (Fourth century A.D.) and used in his times of leisure, such as resting from the African campaign, hunting etc.

Set on three terraced levels, it offered spectacularly landscaped private surroundings for the imperial family and their guests as well as all the amenities suited to nobility includind floor decorations and wall paintings.

You can still see how water was gathered by two aqueducts into a huge tank, where it was partly warmed up by ovens to supply baths while the steam was used for the sauna. You'll see a gymnasium with related dressing and massage rooms, inside and outside lavatories, several dining rooms, the kitchen, indoor and outdoor entertainment and meeting areas and two sites dedicated to the cult of Venus and Lari.

Most floors are paved by countless little tesserae (tiles) which compose more then 40 mosaics, supposedly created by African artists, which tell realistically about life under Massimiano. The word mosaic derives from the Greek "work worthy of the Muses", the Latin Opus Musivum and consists of composing a drawing using small tiles in stone, terra-cotta or glass fixed on cement or mastic layer.

It is almost universally agreed that these mosaics represent one of the highest, spontaneous and striking expressions of the art. Exposed to light they produce an incomparable light irradiation and they appear as if they are the source of that irradiation.

The modern structure built to protect the mosaics at Villa Romana isn't particularly aesthetic, but once you're underneath it you don't mind for long!

Ironically, these masterworks are only so well conserved thanks to a landslide which in 1160 knocked the building down, covered it by mud and preserved it from further destruction until archeological excavations began around 1880.  According to Prof. G.V. Gentili, who entirely brought to light the ruins, the paved floors extending for 3500 sq.m. are the biggest ever found evidence of African mosaic art.

The scenes represented are mostly about everyday life, myths, hunting and games.

You'll find it hard to decide which is your favorite one but Four Seasons, Big Hunting, Little Hunting, Chariots Race, Ten Bikini Girls and Kiss are probably the most impressive.

Visiting Villa Romana del Casale is a 1700 year old historical immersion from which you'll reemerge with the indelible souvenir of a unique experience and an inspiring glimpse into the volatile past of this wondrous regions.

Then, if you feel like it, you can always take your car and drive to a couple of nearby Mafia hit sites…

Qantas flies to Rome three times weekly on Monday,Wednesday and Friday (Ph.131211). Alitalia operates daily connections to Palermo and Catania. From there take the Motorway A 19 (Palermo-Catania or viceversa) and exit at Piazza Armerina.